New Delhi, India – Last week, when models got down from the ramp at the Milan Fashion Week, Harish Kurde saw his smartphone surprise and in his village in the southern Maharashtra state, 000 km. (,,,,,,350 miles) sat down.
The model was displaying a new line of open-to leather sandals, designed by Prada, Iconic Luxury Fashion House. However, in India, the Italian demons failed to give credit to the roots of the ancient Maharashtra of its latest design, and Visual enhanced the anger between the craftsmen and the politicians.
“They stolen and replicated our fierce work, but we are really happy,” Kurde said in a clever tone. “Today, the eyes of the world are on our Kolhapuri ‘Chappells’ (Hindi for sandal). Kolhapur is a city in Maharashtra after which the name of the sandal.
After dealing with the backlash, Prada acknowledged that in a letter to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, his new slippers designs were “inspired by traditional Indian crafts with the old inheritance” for centuries. “
For centuries, he has been cautious about cultural appropriation and financial exploitation by other craftsmen, politicians and activists, while Kurde has been suffering from a sculpture for centuries with global exhibitions from his village.
So, what is the controversy? And what are the craftsmen in Kolhapur? Can anything change for workers behind the original sandal?
What is the way to take?
The Prov has displayed the classic T-strap leather flat in the Spring/T/T/T/T/Summer 2026 menswear collection at Milan Fashion Week.
In his show notes, the Italian brand described the new category of footwear only as “Leather sandal”. No Indian connection has been mentioned in the notes, despite its extraordinary similarities with Kolhapuri sandals, which are worn on special occasions like marriage and festivals with traditional Indian clothing.
An angry, Kolhapuri sandal manufacturer’s delegation last week filed a protest against Maharashtra Chief Minister Devendra Fadnavis.
Dhananjay Mahadik, who supported his support for this delegation, a member of Parliament in Kolhapur district of the state, Governor of Governor Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP). Mahadik told reporters that the sandal makers and their supporters are in the process of filing a case against the Bombay High Court against the Prada.
Taking into account serious violations of the cultural identity and craftsmen of Maharashtra, Mahadik also wrote to Fadnavis and urged him to “protect the cultural heritage of Maharashtra”.
In your letter they mentioned that the sandal price is approximately $ 1,400. In contrast, genuine Kolhapuri sandals can be found in the local market in about $ 12.
How did you respond?
Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA) also wrote a letter to Patrizio Burtley, Chairman of the Pradesh Board of Directors about the concerns of sandal manufacturers.
Two days later, the company acknowledged that this design was inspired by the old Indian sandals for centuries. “We identify the cultural importance of such Indian craftsmanship. Please note that the entire collection is currently at the beginning of the design development and is not confirmed to be the creation or commercialization of any of the pieces,” Prada said.
The company added that they are committed to “responsible design practices, cultural investment, and open dialogues to explain the communication with local Indian artisan communities, as we have done in other collections to identify their crafts in the past.
“The Prada tries to pay homage and recognize the value of specific craftsmen who represent the incredible standards of excellence and inheritance.”
Fashion entrepreneur in Hyderabad city, Shrihaita Wanguri said that Prada’s actions were “disappointing but not surprising”.
“Luxury brands have a long history of borrowing design elements from traditional crafts without giving proper credit – until the reaction comes,” she told Al Jazira. “This is a cultural appropriation if it stops inspiration without attributes or benefits.”
Kolhapuris, called sandals, is not just a design, she insisted. They are in the state of Karnataka in the state of Maharashtra for centuries and the neighboring Karnataka. “Ignoring that context, the real people and the bread are erased,” she continued.
What about the artisans of Kolhapur?
Kolhapur, located in Maharashtra, is a city with a royal heritage, spiritual importance and artistic pride. Beyond his craft, Kolhapur is a many respected Hindu temples and a rich Pakistani heritage – his food is spicy.
His famous sandals are the 12th century, more than 20,000 local families are still involved in this craft.
The family of Kurde, who is happy to show the Prada Sandal, lives in the outside of Kolhapur and has been in the business for more than 100 years.
But he said that this business has been beaten up in recent years. “In India, people do not really understand this artist or want to keep money anymore. If an international brand comes, it steals it and shows it on the global platform, maybe it’s good for us,” he told Al Jazir.
He said that the craftsmen like the people of his family “still stand wherever it was years ago”.
“We have crafts and ability to move forward, but the government did not support,” said a 40 -year -old boy.
Instead, Kurde said, things have become even worse due to politics.
Since 2014, when the Hindu chief of Prime Minister Narendra Modi came to power in New Delhi, cows have changed from the symbols of faith only for religious identity and social struggle. Cow protection, once becomes cultural, violent, vigilance by hunting Dalits and Muslims, which transport most cows and buffaloes to the slaughter.
This has disrupted a reliable supply of cows and buffaloes hidden, which is made to make Kolhapuri Chappells.
Kurde said, “Hiding the original we use for quality is restricted by the politics of cows in many states.” “The politics on cows have reduced the new supply – and we are suffering because it has become really expensive for you to do this with the same quality.”
A craftsman like Kurde believes that if they can make the sandals cheap and more accessible, “people will wear it because people love for centuries”.
Nevertheless, Kurde said, Prada Kolhapuri can try and imitate aesthetics, while the Dalit community in the southern Maharashtra and parts of the Karnataka border cannot replicate the patterns of complicated hand -woven design patterns. Dalits are traditionally the most neglected sections of India’s complex caste hierarchy.
He said, “The genuine design is a thing that is rare and unique.” There are no shops in Kolhapur city. “
Kurde said that for centuries, true designs are still built in the village using old manuals.
But due to the challenge of hiding sourcing quality and the increasing digital marketplace that was unfamiliar with the craftsmanship, Dalit sandal makers need help, he said.
He said, “People who know the market, those who can sell it, are stopping. Poor villagers like us cannot run websites; we have no knowledge of marketing,” he said.
“The government should pay attention to this to look into this. It is his duty to pay attention to it. The benefits have never reached the real manufacturers of the Dalit group.”
Has this happened before?
१ since the scene, after the continuous lawyers of the craftsman groups, India has protected Kolhapuri Sandal under its Geographical Indications Act (1999 1999), which has prevented the use of the word “Kolhapuri Saplapal”. But this protection is limited to the national border.
Pradesh had earlier faced important criticism on the alleged cultural appropriation, the main when in 2018 when the “Pradamalaia” collection – Kitchens and statues, with exaggerated red lips, with exaggerated red lips, quickly compared with the blackfast image. After the reaction, the provider pulled the products from the store and expressed public apologies.
Prady has been criticized for the use of luxury materials based on the ethnic conservative store display, as well as the use of luxury materials such as ostrich and foreign leather, which has been criticized by environmental and labor rights groups.
But Prada is not alone.
In १ In, Christian Dyer criticized the inclusion of components motivated by Mexican Harce Woman’s traditional costume without formal receipt or cooperation.
In 2015, French designer Isabel March was set on fire for marketing blouses, reflecting the traditional embroidery patterns of the Mix Community in Mexico in Mexico.
Instead of apologizing, Fashion entrepreneur Wanguri said, “Real respect is that Kolhapuri will be co-produced with Capsule Collection with Karagir Clusters-they will get a reasonable design credit, profit share and global visibility”.
“Constructively, they can be committed to long-term partnerships with craft cooperatives or capacity-creation and design innovation for these communities,” she said.
